- Tub surround tile work: $2,000 flat.
- Kitchen backsplash tile work: $1,000 flat, labor.
- Tile floors: $3 per square foot labor, or $2 per square foot labor on jobs of 2,000 square feet or more.
Removing Old Walls and Inspecting Framing in Salado Bathrooms
In Salado, homes off Salado Creek or out along the rural lanes often have fiberglass tub inserts or older tiled walls that have begun to show their age. When we begin a tub surround project, the first step is controlled demolition. We pull the old surround material down to the bare wooden framing. This exposes the plumbing rough-ins, the tub flange, and the condition of the wall studs. If previous moisture managed to slip past cracked grout or standard sheetrock, we find the damage immediately. We inspect every stud to make sure the framing sits plumb, flat, and square before any new substrate goes up.
A standard bathtub features an integrated lip called a tub flange that rests directly against the wall framing. If backer board is hung straight over that flange without proper shimming, the bottom edge of the board kicks outward, creating an uneven slope on the bottom course of tile. We shim the studs or pack the framing so the substrate hangs true and sits just above the flange, never resting on the tub deck where it could draw up standing water. We also protect the tub with heavy protective coverings so cast iron, steel, or acrylic surfaces remain safe throughout the job.
Installing Solid Backer Board and Bonded Waterproofing
Tile and grout are decorative and durable, but they do not stop water on their own. Moisture naturally works through microscopic pores in grout over time, which means the wall structure behind the tile must be completely water-tight. We install solid cement backer board or high-density foam panels mechanically fastened with corrosion-resistant screws into the framing. Over this substrate, we apply a bonded waterproof membrane across every joint, fastener penetration, and corner seam. This creates an unbroken barrier that channels moisture straight into the tub basin instead of letting it soak into your wall cavities.
- Fastening cement backer or foam panels directly to plumbed framing studs
- Taping all panel seams and fastener heads with alkali-resistant mesh and mortar
- Applying a bonded waterproof membrane across all wet zones and inside corner joints
- Sealing the critical gap where the backer board meets the top of the tub flange

Layout Strategy and Setting Field Tile Across Corners
Custom homes in Salado often feature distinct bathroom layouts with high ceilings or wide alcoves that require careful planning before mortar is mixed. We measure the back wall and both side returns to establish level layout lines. We avoid starting with a full tile off the tub deck if the tub itself is slightly out of level, since that would carry an error all the way to the ceiling. Instead, we strike a level laser line, set the field tile on a ledger, and scribe the bottom row to match the exact profile of the tub deck.
Whether you choose porcelain, ceramic, marble, terrazzo, zellige, or mosaic sourced from the Temple supply house, we mix the proper thinset mortar for that specific material. We back-butter large tiles to guarantee full mortar coverage with no empty pockets behind the surface. For exposed outer edges where the tile transitions to painted sheetrock, we install clean satin or brass edge profiles. These metal profiles enclose the cut edges of the tile, leaving a clean, straight edge that protects the tile from chipping.
Framing and Waterproofing Recessed Soap and Shampoo Niches
A recessed niche provides a clean space for soap and shampoo without taking up room on the tub ledge. During the framing stage, we can box out a niche between the wall studs on the back or side wall. A niche requires the exact same waterproofing care as the main surround. The bottom shelf of the niche is installed with a slight downward slope toward the tub, roughly an eighth of an inch, allowing standing water to drain into the tub basin rather than pooling in the back corners where grime can collect.
We calculate the placement and height of the niche so it matches the surrounding tile grid. We make sure the niche opening lines up with full tiles or clean half cuts rather than leaving tiny sliver cuts around the border. The interior of the niche can be lined with your main field tile, a decorative mosaic, or a solid stone shelf. We trim the perimeter with matching brass or satin profiles to keep the exterior corners sharp and durable.
Grout Selection, Deck Joints, and Jobsite Care
After the tile is set and the mortar has cured, we pack the joints with high-grade grout selected to match your style. The grout is pressed deep into every seam, wiped clean, and buffed to eliminate haze on the tile surface. For porous materials like natural stone or unglazed tile, we apply a penetrating sealer to protect the surface from water marks and mineral deposits. Grout dries rigid, which means it should never be used where two different surfaces meet or where movement occurs.
The joint where the lowest row of tile meets the tub deck is left open during grouting. We pack that change-of-plane joint with a color-matched flexible sealant. This sealant accommodates the minor movement that occurs when a tub fills with water and holds weight, preventing cracks from opening up at the rim. The same flexible joint is applied down both inside vertical corners. Once sealed, we clean up the bathroom, remove all debris, and leave the room ready. Tub surround tile work is $2,000 flat, and Genaro Merlan handles the work from initial measurements to final cleanup.